Foie gras & chocolate truffle
We went to Paris for lunch with Tante Koosje's brigade – 5 courses, 2 stars. It
was 1989. My taste development was still in the embryonic stage and the entourage
(Restaurant Apicius on the Rue d'Artois in Paris) was something to get nervous about.
Let's call it healthy culinary excitement. To my surprise we got like
dessert bleu fried duck foie gras with a bitter chocolate sauce – wow! Like this
magnificent… (thanks, Chef Jean-Pierre Vigato). I then thought: if I ever own the menu
can decide, then I do something with this. It took a while for the idea to crystallize.
Sometimes a creation comes in stages… Because my children have been since childhood
loved nice crispy choux batter and loved sprits in it
chocolate, I came up with the idea of serving the fatty duck foie gras in a
dark chocolate shell, served with a churros (inspired by the Madrilenian
snacks). The second preparation of duck (dried domestic duck breast)
thanks to chief
Mandy Young. Long before the era of the dry aged cabinets, she already left duck breast à
la pastrami drying in the cellar of the Mariënhof.
Churros combines exclusivity with intensity and spice – literally and figuratively. The amuse
has a sharp edge, but the berbere spice mix remains discreetly in the background.
It was a sensation for me, so many years after my lunch at Apicius, to do the translation
towards the board. In an amuse-bouche that hopefully everyone will remember.